Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 01:10 pm, by: Mark Brunning(96limited)
Hi mate I have a 96 v8 , before I did any mods yeah I could chirp wheels and spin rears with a bit of moisture on road, after costa did 3 in straight through exhaust with headers power jumped up from 130rwk to 165-170, I have 18s and rear tyres 265 and yeah can do burnout
Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 01:13 pm, by: Rob Charles(Pearl_white)
Good to hear! I'm just wondering why I have a lack of 0-30kmh power now. Have a few issues mentioned in other threads.
A few Soarer owners claim they can't do a burnout or get a chirp and that's normal. (Which lead me to believe something was wrong or modded in my car, as I could spin up pretty good).
This is nonsense considering that a 130kw 240nm jaguar can spin the wheels from a stop on dry roads up to about 20kmh. An XA-BF falcon with less power than the Soarer can also spin the wheels from launch.
It's slightly worrying to pull out in an intersection with the Soarer right now - it has no instant perkiness.
"what has gone wrong since I bought the car?"...
Anyway, back on topic - Who here can still do a burnout?
Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 01:24 pm, by: Rob Charles(Pearl_white)
Yup, For the first 2 weeks after buying the car, I could literally exit my drive way - and put the foot down - the car would absolutely fly whilst chirping.
Then one day it stopped. The redline also hit 7500-8000rpm a few times briefly (I put this down to low trans fluid at the time which was replaced a month later - as that can give a higher rpm than expected)
Now, I can only hit 6300rpm (the proper limiter), the take off from 0-30kmh is barely there, but once I hit 30 - it's a rocket again.
Am getting error code 63 (solenoid #2 in gearbox), but am unsure if that's the ECU or the solenoid itself. (bad ecu can throw bad codes).
But, even when driving it manually, putting the foot down in first gear - the car is a slug til 30kmh or so.
In fact, my mothers 4 cylinder Hyundai excel beats it to around 40kmh... But soon as the Soarer hits 30-40kmh the Hyundai is far far behind.
Seems that the RPM's takes 1 second longer to redline than before also... Am due for an Oil/filter change - but surely that's not causing it... Error 63 states that in D, you should take off in first gear, skip 2nd and 3rd, and wind up in 4th.
I am getting all gears however.
Mike Beck Goo Roo New Zealand UZZ32 No.32 & JZZ31 3.0GT
Saturday, April 11, 2015 - 06:07 am, by: James Johnson(Jimbo)
Mark Brunning wrote on Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 01:10 pm:
3 in straight through exhaust with headers power jumped up from 130rwk to 165-170,
Doubt it is anywhere near 165-170rwkw with only those mods, probably looking at 150 mark unless you haven't mentioned some other mods.
I has been a while since I last had anything close to stock but when I did, both Soarer's I have owned have been able to break traction fairly easily with no wider than 225 tyres.
Blaine Hanson DieHard WA Soarer V8 (203RWHP), FGX XR8 (680RWHP)
Monday, April 13, 2015 - 08:23 pm, by: Scott Vim(1uz1jz)
Yeah saying the same thing over and over does not fix things or help out others. Finding the issue and fixing it then posting the answer does. All you is add •••• to gold. Now when I have an ecu issue I have to sort through all your rubbish saying you should really fix your ecu. Long posts about your theories. No one cares. Just get it done ya turkey. Don't want to see another post about booking your ecu in or why you couldn't do it (radiator flush or oil change).
Wednesday, March 16, 2016 - 03:42 pm, by: Darcy Tregilgas(Darkfleet)
Sorry to bring this post back from the dead, but I have coil overs in my 91 uzz31 and with them set on stiff or soft, if I drive down a dirt road (I live in rural SA) I can easily spin the wheels as much as I want in almost every gear, until there is no loose gravel. The wheels instantly grip again, which can be a bit scary when you are sideways round a bend mind you. I only run 225/45/17 on the rear, and it’s just grip all day every day, till there is a tiny amount of gravel or moisture. From a stand still, if it is a cool dry day, with cold tyres etc, I cannot spin the back wheels by putting my foot down or anything. If it is wet at all, spins easily. My old 7m Cressida with WIDE wheels and a bhg used to spin the wheels like it was nothing. That car was manual though, but didn’t have to try very hard. Am I doing something wrong or am I just lacking in power after 25 years of abuse? Like OP, my car decimates my mates once going over 30, but they almost always get the jump on me to begin with.
I’m thinking about getting some hurricane extractors and a system to match and see where that gets me, even just freeing up the old girl a bit more. Also looking into a shift kit as I don’t think I will be able to afford a manual conversion any time soon.
Wednesday, October 26, 2016 - 12:25 am, by: Raoul Duke(Hunter)
I have the same problem not being able to spin rear tyres on dry roads. My car is a bit slow right now under 3000rpm then it takes off faster than hell; It's like it has a turbo. With the maf unplugged you get a lot more power and it will spin. Lesser power higher weight cars can spin tyres easily even as an auto, so something must be wrong.
I think the problem is the ECU coolant temp sensor or the usual plugs/coils/dizzies. If the sensor is out enough the car might think it's 0 degrees and play up, but not throw a code necessarily. It's $30 at repco so I'll let you know how it goes in the coming weeks.
i've heard the sensor fixes lots of fuel and slowdown quirks on the Lexus LS400 which runs the same engine. It's all over the LS400 forums.
Wednesday, October 26, 2016 - 02:52 pm, by: Smitty Jackson(Black_sheep_mu0)
My SC400 will boil the tires on dry pavement when I turned the traction control off, I just deleted the traction control and ABS not to long ago and it spins the tires all day, I don't know if the Soarers came with traction control over there,but maybe if so there is a problem with the traction control not disengaging, I do have issues with low rpm at idle, and it is a bit laggy on takeoff sometimes, but it still spins the tires really well. I wish you the best of luck with it.
Thursday, October 27, 2016 - 03:12 am, by: Smitty Jackson(Black_sheep_mu0)
What is the difference between the two? I know we have a bunch of emissions junk on our motors in the US, but is there any other differences between the two?
It will work in the Soarer BUT it is intended for use on an engine with EGR setup which Soarers don't have but SC400's do. This results in an "engine electrical" error and a bit of a miss when changing gear when throttle is full open (all the time in my car!). Not too bad to live with and worth trying as it is. The EGR circuit uses pins on the connector that aren't fitted in the Soarer connector wiring loom so the cure will involve an internal mod to the ECU which I haven't had time to work out yet but should be easy. The SC400 ECU has no speed cut and slightly higher rev limit (6400 or 6600 revs, not sure which) and does seem to go a bit better too.
If you want to go down this path keep in mind the US spec ECUs were designed to work with 4 wide band oxygen sensors. Jap spec cars only used 2 narrow band oxygen sensors.
Personally I just ran a SARD modified ECU with a Motec piggy backed to it when I added the supercharger.
Wolf also make a plug and play ECU for the Soarers that that gives the tuner total control and will also control the auto. I have one of those as well somewhere, I may sell one day if I ever find it.
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