Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 03:20 pm, by: Jade Mills(Jade_mills)
I have a 32, few minor mods, a really well built BFI, Charles's and dual exhaust. Car weighs 1760kgs with full fuel (did some weight saving mods, dropped about 60kgs off it) and now have supra to rims with Micky Thompson street et's, so I can launch harder
I have the newest gtech pro (this one updates 5times more per second than the last) and I am consistently getting 0-100 in 7.5secs, sometimes 7.8. I can see the times it takes me to get to each interval too (0-10,0-20,80-110 and anything I want) and I see the soarer gets from 0-50 in 3.6 secs, and 50-100 in 3.9 secs. Now when you take into account that there is a fear change that is probably slower than .5of a sec at 80kph, that means I go from 50-100 faster than 0-50, there is very little torque under 4000rpm, but seems to pull very very well above that
Any ideas to why this happens? It has been the same even when I was able to get a bit of wheel spin off the line, and feels like there could be a simple answer, or are there some better easy cheap mods out there to get some of that power lower? (I know about diff change, torque converter change, add a H-pipe) but anything I am overseeing? Assuming a lot of you guys are sort of in the same boat too
Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 06:02 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
I know all about this problem. Issue lies with the characteristics of the UZZ32.
On take off the pump fluid pressure is in max demand to keep rear struts firm so the rear of the car doesn't sag, this adds to a power loss at the engine, it's most noticeable in the low to mid rpm band, under 40kph in 1st.
I tested 0-100 with the active switch off. Difference was nearly 1.0 second faster to 100kph, which shows just how much load it can take on the engine, I'd estimate 20-40hp.
The 4 speed auto compounds the slow acceleration issues further.
With a first gear ratio of 2.53 via 3.91, it has a final effective gear of 9.89:1, second 5.98:1.... so fairly lazy, couple that with only 250hp/353nm stock, less the load the active pump it's why UZZ32s can only hit 100kph in high 7s early 8s.
I solved this issue in my UZZ32 by retrofitting a 4.3L VVTi 3UZ-FE and 6 speed automatic (From 2004 LS430). It has 300hp/435nm, so a lot more power and torque over the stock engine. The gearing favors good acceleration too, 1st, 12.86:1... 2nd, 7.66 and so on.
Currently with a modest launch on standard tyres I can do the following acceleration times
Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 11:38 pm, by: Jade Mills(Jade_mills)
Makes perfect sense, good explanations, I see you tested your 0-100 without active on, did you go to the boot and turn it off, launch, then turn it back on? I'm thinking of a launch control button that disables the active until 50kph or for 30seconds. Is that something your engine will benefit from too?
Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 06:41 am, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
I think it's a viable idea, I was going to do something similar but happy with where it is now.
Yeah simply switch off, it just means the active system electronics wont work so nothing happens, ride just turns boaty and it holds at whatever height it was last at.
Thursday, May 17, 2018 - 10:09 am, by: Randy Poffo(Macho_man)
Before my engine computer died last year my car would feel boggy under 3000rpm, but when it reached 3000rpm it would fly. Found out a capacitor was leaking and a transistor looked burnt so I changed stuff there and put a new temperature ecm sensor under the top engine coil and there was no more lag down low. I don't have gtech numbers, but I know it felt like the car took 8-9 seconds to reach 100kmh, but now it takes 7 or less. I have a uzz31 1991 v8 on coil suspension.
Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 05:29 pm, by: Tom Claffey(Tom_claffey)
A while ago I had starting issues, had to feather the throttle on cranking to start. Then it stalled a few times, then it would start fine when cold but not start, and zero bolts to fuel pump, when hot. A wise mechanic told me on the phone that multiple problems are usually the ECU. I took it out and there were 5 (out of 6-7?) capacitors that were leaking, luckily no other damage yet. My local Asian computer tech replaced all the caps for $100 and all the problems went away. (Until recent coil failure fixed by Ebay coils)