Thursday, September 07, 2017 - 10:09 am, by: Patrick Mccreanor(Daddyg)
taking way too long to get my head around this ,Now I checked the power going to maf with socket off ,from left to right - 5 5 5 - with connect on MAF and back pinned _ 2 5 5 _ NO 12 volts, does this mean the ECU is shot ? and where can I get the computer sorted ? Cheers Pat ps the car goes in to limp mode when warm ,I had though it was the MAF griving grief , I did have a look in computer ,no leaky caps or bulging, any info please.
Thursday, September 07, 2017 - 05:48 pm, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
You won't get 12 volts at the air flow meter (it's different to a MAF)
Can't really test the air flow signal as a it's a variable frequency 5v type.
Only thing you can't test on them is the air intake temperature resistance.
Best to run diagnostics TE1 and E1 or TC and E1, see what codes you get
Likely ECU capacitor issues, can be hard to see, and sometimes poorly repaired so the results remain. I can fix these.
Try run the car without the airflow meter plugged in, see how it responds, might be a bit weird here and there but should run well on the whole if the AFM is causing issues.
Of course poor running could also be: oxygen sensors crank or cam sensors efi water temp sensor knock sensors tired ignitors, coils, leads, rotors, distributors, or spark plugs etc
Friday, September 08, 2017 - 03:00 pm, by: Patrick Mccreanor(Daddyg)
the car starts off alright but after a couple of kilometers starts stalling and going again I was getting code 24 , as far as I know this is the MAF with the intake air temperature sensor on the pipe between the air filter and throttle body I've brought five of these things thinking it was the problem , the car runs better with this MAF disconnected and still have the same symtom, the car go's good at hwy speed but not suburbia, I'll stop at a shop on the way home and the car then idles at 1200RPM and haft to manual change gears and the red electrical fault comes up on dash , when I do a diagnostic it flashes up ECT NG for a second then goes to the -- , I have replaced cam and crank sensors , coils leads plugs, and a second hand ECU and then brought a spare only to find it was for a LS 400 not a SC 400 and then to find out even that is no good either because it needs to suit UZZ30 instead.9 out of 10 times it appears that the main computer is at fault so where is the best place to send off ,I also have the original that looks ok inside but does not want to play?
Saturday, September 09, 2017 - 01:39 am, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
Hmmmm from what you've said it's likely the ECU playing up. Certainly worth having a look anyway.
At some point they always play up, so do second hand ones so worth sorting, can be a cure, or at least take it off the list of possible issues.
I can sort them out, have a good reputation for doing so, full cap replacement, clean up of leakage and testing for any damage etc. I do this service for $250 NZD + postage, usually need the ECU for a couple of days depending on it's condition.
Wednesday, September 27, 2017 - 06:54 pm, by: Patrick Mccreanor(Daddyg)
so I sent a couple of ECU's off to Mike Beck for cap replace ment and the car is running fine now , though I found that the throttle position sensor unit was out of wack , I had a spare but with the computer playing up with out back pinning them It was hit and miss till we sorted the ECU. cheers Pat thanks again Mike.
Thursday, September 28, 2017 - 09:41 am, by: Mike Beck(Gold_40gt)
That's good news Patrick.
Yeah TPS sensors can be adjusted or messed with sometimes, they can fail but thats rare.
There is a prescribed procedure to set them up right, but its often easier to just adjust them with the car idling, its pretty obvious where the sweet spot is.
They have a switch responsible for idle functions that simply grounds so the engine knows whats going on, if that's not working it can stall easily.
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