Before putting in major funds to rectify your Soarer issues, please check your ECU first!
ECU requires a torx screwdriver, not a standard screwdriver, or you will strip the heads.
Just had my V8 ECU die. Car will crank but not fire, no power to fuel pump unless bypassed in engine diag port. No spark.
Highly recommend ALL owners check their ECU's, turns out this is not a unique thing. It has been said again and again, but seriously check your ECU BEFORE damage.
ECU had 3-4 capacitors leaking onto the motherboard by the time I checked, and ate the internal traces and so on.
Have an expert with the ECU now that claims he cannot repair it, it is too far gone. Replaced caps, got 'everything' working, but his test car still will not fire. So, ECU is dead.
Symptoms experienced for a few months before dying: Had idle surge looping from 1000-1500rpm, sometimes idle sat at 1100rpm, sometimes 200rpm, transmission solenoid error #63 preventing kickdown and correct gear changes, no air conditioner operation, car felt sluggish. Car would be a slug til 3000rpm then take off better. Car would over fuel, and sometimes smoke.
Replaced IACV 3 times, TPS twice, bought a solenoid for gearbox, nothing worked. Checked the ECU, and caps were leaking. Bingo.
I cannot find a Japanese ECU anywhere on the internet so am forced into buying an SC400 ECU from before 1994. It is plug and play. It will work. If you buy a california ECU as opposed to federal USA ECU, you will have an error on the dash for a missing oxygen sensor as the California cars have a 3rd cat. There may be a way to stop this warning, people are working on it as we speak. A non California SC400 ECU should not have this error code, as they did not have a 3rd cat. The only other error you may or may not experience is the traction control error if your car has not got traction control (USA cars did have traction control from memory).
Hope this post helps someone not in the know.
Will be putting the SC400 ECU in over the weekend, will report back with news.
As other Soarer sites have mentioned, this is an age and standing up issue. A Junkyard ECU will likely not be any better, and will probably die within a year. Every single Soarer ECU (and other 90's Japanese ECU's) are basically all dead now. Capacitors last 10-20 years. Cars are 25+ years old.
The only way you can be sure any ECU is fine, is if it has been re-capped every 5 or 10 years from new.
ALL ECU's will die shortly, or have already died.
At this stage, any or all issues with your Soarer should be put down to the ECU if it has not been looked at.
Nathan. I can confirm the sc400 ecu will throw an ect fault code in soarers, due to our cars not having egr valves. Also gives a different gear change due to different auto setup. Old ecu is probably repairable, send it to either Mike Beck or myself, there's not many we cant fix. Also the sc400 ecu will need recapping, they leak exactly the same as soarers. I have a few recapped for owners that can't source soarer ecus or for 1uz engine swaps. Cheers.
I had given the ECU to Damien Ware, he says it is dead. Apparently he has a good reputation so I tend to believe him. When I get it back I will contact yourself or Mike. (Damien used a standard screwdriver to open the ECU whilst I was there, little bit of a red flag. Luckily I left the screws loose or he woulda stripped the heads...)
With the transmission, I understand the SC400 uses A341 gearbox, and UZZ31 uses A341E gearbox. Same gearbox, just one has electronic kickdown.
I believe the only error with a California ECU would be the oxygen sensor missing and perhaps traction control missing. Soon find out. Will be picking ECU up Monday afternoon now, not over weekend.
I Have a re-capped SC400 ECU ready to be picked up. Have to use this til I find a working JDM ECU, as I need a running car.
Hi guys, I got the new ECU and my car still will not fire. Cranks good, just won't fire.
Here are my problems. B+ should have 12v I believe.
I get 0.5V to B+ when ignition on but car not running. I get 10.5V with car running in B+ port. Car won't fire with fuel ecu bypassed. Car will only fire and run with a wire attached physically from battery to fuel pump.
I have cracked the sh!ts so am now relaxing in front of the computer.
Can someone please lend a hand, where to start looking? Would the EFI relay cause this problem?
Thursday, May 10, 2018 - 09:08 am, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
quote Lexus is the new BMW - junk. The drivers are turkeys, the cars suck and look like dork mobils, and are crap in general.
The only good Lexus is the Soarer, which is really a Toyota; All other Lexus vehicles are junk. .............................................. Thought you were the expert , !!!!!! get a Lexus they start first time ,
Nathan. It's possible the 30 ecu is faulty also, has it been recapped? I'm unsure from your post if you bypassed the fuel pump ecu at the diagnostic port or at the ecu? Since it was the dying ecu that started the problem I'd be fitting a "known working ecu" before looking further.
The ECU I bought is from Damien Ware, and he claims he recapped it, and was running it 3 months ago on his vehicle...
Have not opened it to check yet. Have an auto elec coming today to try check a few things out, over the phone he mentioned it could be the ECU again or the main EFI relay. Read a lot of posts about the lack of b+ 12v, but nobody has a real answer or fix, everything implies EFI fuse or MREL of ECU being dead...
Been pretty sick, am sick, not all there this week. Have not replied to mails, but will. Auto elec will be here around lunch time and I'll reply with updates tonight or tomorrow.
May or may not be in the market for another ECU depending how it goes.
I have a 1991 Uzz31 Soarer (Air/EMV/auto/no trac).
Nathan, Sorry to hear you are feeling poorly. We are mostly a helpful forum & most members will make allowances for the inexperience of 'newbies' to soarers, we were all 'newbies" once. I've found it best not to respond to the taunts of others, it says more about them than about me. We would be wise to remember that snobbishness & intolerance has killed off many forums. I've been repairing these ecus for a few years, learned a lot but there's still plenty I to learn. I'd suggest the best way to confirm your ecu is performing correctly is by substitution with another from a working car. I've seen many 'working when removed x months ago', that don't work now. It's always my first port of call. Most owners open them up & say they look good but anyone who works with electronics knows that visual inspection is only a small part of fault finding. Most electronic faults don't have a visual indicator.
Saturday, May 12, 2018 - 02:09 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Tim i imported soarers from 07 till 012 even sold some to members ,changed cam belts worked out mods for EMV TV ,and helped many members etc and this guy comes on and tells me what screwdriver to use to remove a ECU !! and then makes all those stupid comments , so i will not make an allowance .
Nathan, have a look at the number of posts some members have made over a long period of time. Then look at your contribution to the forum over a couple of weeks. Some of your rants, eg against Lexus show you are lacking in maturity.
Nobody gives a sh!t how many posts someone has made if all posts are CRAP. 3 good posts in 2500+. I see this elitist attitude all over this forum, you people need to take a hard look at yourselves. People come here for help, not to be bossed around by retarded persons with no clue.
If this Dave guy has knowledge, he can provide links instead of trolling. Simple as that. In fact, you can all provide help, or gtfo, it's really that simple. Don't even reply if you have nothing to contribute.
So, that Dave guy is a moron. Could not care less about his input. Just a terrible troll. He imported cars for 5 years, so what. My family has imported cars for 50+ years. Means zero. You sign paperwork, get the car here, and it's here. Doesn't mean you know a thing about Soarers. Anyone can read a book; Anyone can change a timing belt.
Look at his post history, a mong. The dude literally thinks it is not a torx screwdriver for the ECU allegedly also. Forget him.
And Tom, you too are a fool. If Dave knew anything he should be posting links to help other members like myself with this very issue. Instead, just like you, he is a goofy troll that knows zero. The Lexus post was tongue in cheek, but you goons cannot take a joke obviously (although I was not wrong with that post what so ever). I came here for help, not for morons to tell me that that my post is embarrassing, or not to necro threads, or so on. Figured it would save 20 minutes reading through the workshop manual, my mistake.
Many other Soarer sites out there, many other Toyota sites, jap import sites, and so on. Figured this would be a quick and easy question but seemingly not one single person has anything to contribute, as nobody knows wtf they are talking about.
Seems like a theme with this site, a bunch of Soarer 'owners' pretending to be elitists, but most are really goofy trolls. Looking at post histories, the most helpful Soarer gurus have left long ago - only an echo chamber here now.
You guys shame the Soarer name. Take a good look at yourselves, and grow tf up. You're all in your 40s or worse, carrying on like moronic 20 year olds.
Now, back to the topic - couldn't care less about your post histories or so on. You either know stuff, or you don't. I couldn't care less about your panties being twisted up your vaginas in the least.
Really, no big loss if nobody chimes in with the correct info, I have 4 workshop manuals here and will easily find out the info. Simply figured I'd put the post on the site to help other people out - but you people ruined that as usual. Within 5 days the issue will be fixed - it's really that simple. I'm just sick right now so figured some internet research would do the trick, my mistake. Either you people have info, or the workshop books in the garage do. No big loss.
You mongs call me the troll, what a joke. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Back to the topic. Things tried so far:
*Swapped main engine ECU with known working recapped ECU* :No change. *Bypassed fuel ecu with paperclip from b+ to fp* :No change. (Not working). *Checked relays (specifically main EFI) and they seem fine. Swapped with other relays, no change. *Am yet to check the COR (circuit opening relay). *Fuel pump does work, but only when using a physical wire attached from the battery to the fuel pump behind rear seat. *Car will crank and fire, and stay running with a physical wire from battery to fuel pump behind rear seat.
Turns out that I have 10.5V with ignition on in the B+ port of the diagnostic thing; As far as I know, I should be getting 12v, is this right? Bypassing the fuel pump ECU with FP and +B does not work. Car has spark, just no fuel.
Nathan Roberts wrote "I have 4 workshop manuals here and will easily find out the info" Well off you go and read them, all the time you have spent here trolling around you could have read over all 4 copies 10 times and had your answer.
Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 12:29 pm, by: Randy Poffo(Macho_man)
Lol, this is funny as absolute hell. Some members tried to troll Nathan, and Nathan gets banned for putting people in their place. I guess he was right all along... Seems like all he wanted to do was contribute to the community and help other people with the same problem as he had, but got trolled instead and then banned as he obviously upset a friend of the site owner. LOL!
Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 07:39 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Yes its sad Mike , our Soarer sits in the garage with the cover over it most of the time now ,waiting for 97s to go up a bit , i bought a new Pajero sport exceed to tow the caravan , not as quick as the soarer though LOL.