Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 01:34 pm, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
The extra injector will still cause the stock computer to adjust.
I think the Bullet unit is only for timing and WOT fuel. The bloke from bullet said that the piggyback would make the car a lot punchier down low. I'm not sure how much timing the car would be able to take with a blower. I would have thought that timing would have to come out of the map at 6psi but I could be wrong. Richwood claim that the stock ECU can handle the blower kit so I'm assuming it's safe to run 14.7:1 closed loop.
Without putting a car on a dyno and checking if the stock computer pulls out the fuel mods, there's no way to know.
Even if it didn't pull the timing and fuel out initially, it might over time.
Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 02:35 pm, by: Damien Smith(Damien)
I thought the extra injector map was just to control a single injector independently of the stock fuelling? Admittedly I haven't really looked at it in any detail.
Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 03:04 pm, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
With the extra injector, the stock ecu will detect a rich mixture and pull fuel out of the internal map to compensate for the additional fuel you're adding with the extra injector. If you get the ecu to the point where it can no longer pull out fuel, you may get an error code but then you can inject as much as you want with the extra injector.
Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 03:19 pm, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
If you're going to be soldering up the diode and resistor on veroboard, cut it to 3x3cm, solder components and wires then wrap the vero board in electrical tape, 3 layers should do it, then either glue or tape it to the top of the SMT6.
If you cut the harness down to 200mm or 250mm, this should be plenty. You can remove the unused wires by releasing the clip on the lug and pulling the wire out of the connector.
I taped my SMT6 to the top of the existing ecu. The black kick panel still fits.
Neil Griffiths Trader NSW I have MORE Soarers than Hayden :-)
Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 06:32 pm, by: Neil Griffiths(Aussiesc)
I'm lucky..I have the harness from an Apexi Power FC ( 1st Series ) that was from a JZA80 So I can wire all mine up on the bench then just plug it into the harness..heheheheh
Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 09:37 pm, by: Justin McLernon(Zz32)
I think my head is about to explode.
Anish, how would you feel about putting together a step-by-step tutorial for V8 owners along the lines of "DUMMIES GUIDE - HOW TO INSTALL AN SMT6 INTO A V8 SOARER"? I am talking as dumbed down a description as possible, pretend this is a project for a sheltered workshop, and include:
- physically installing the SMT6 - what "mods" need to be done and why - software settings
Or would this fall into the category of "if you have to ask...get someone who has a clue to do it"
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 06:52 am, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
The installation part isn't hard but trying to explain how to solder up the resistor and diode to the non electrically minded is a bit of a task.
It might be easier for me to make up 9 boards and post them to the SMT6 owners. Either that or just take some pictures of a dodgy version using crimp connectors.
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 10:46 am, by: Mark Paddick(Sparks)
I haven't been following this thread and there are a couple of things. For the diodes a 1N4148 is not a high speed diode, the others are. 1N4148 is probably a bit low on the current ratings too, use one of the others. 1N5819 is ideal. If there is a problem running -ve supply directly to ground that is cured by running it directly to the battery THEN YOU HAVE EARTHING PROBLEMS IN THE CAR!!!!! The chassis is the biggest wire gauge you will ever get. If it is properly connected to the battery -ve terminal then there will be no problems using the chassis as the -ve connection. Sort this out before attempting anything else. Many problems will simply go away when it is right.
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 11:01 am, by: Anish Varsani(Yomama)
1N4148 according to the datasheet is a high speed, small signal diode. I've used these in small three phase motor drives accross transistors before without a drama as long as the winding inductance, voltage and drive switching speed are considered when choosing a diode.
Dosn't really matter. I'm using the ECU earth from the LHS cylender bank and the ECU B+. Noise problem ended up not being a ground problem but a trigger level problem. The fuel pump ecu seems to put a small ripple on the B+ that was being picked up by the SMT6.
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 03:01 pm, by: Justin McLernon(Zz32)
I'd certainly be up for one of these boards if they are necessary to properly install the SMT6.
A Dummies Guide to the SMT6 installation would be very much appreciated by people like me who would like to "give it a go" but have no idea what a "diode" is and why it is required for the installation.
Friday, October 12, 2007 - 01:17 pm, by: Carlos Restrepo(Ca12los)
I am almost done setting up my SMT6 on my supercharged LS400. I am going to use a 2 bar MAP sensor for deflection and I will be adding water/meth injection then advancing the timing.
I really don't know if I should tune closed loop lambda and use my BEGI FPR to tune the fuel at WOT. I guess tuning WOT and leaving closed loop alone would be the best option to most of us.
I would love to hear how Peter's car is doing nowadays. 230 RWKW+ I bet!!!