Monday, December 26, 2005 - 04:54 pm, by: Rowan Parker(Rowan)
Electrical glitch. Can anyone help. My V8 has lost spark & fuel pump from the key, although it winds over fine with no dash warnings. The pump will run with the Fp - B+ bridged, but no spark, ergo no run. Diagnostics show EFI NG --, & ECT NG --. No fault numbers are showing. I have checked all fuses and links, battery and terminals, I have power to the coils & igniters. I even checked to see if I still had an ECU, it looks like a virgin with a great smile & not a hair out of place (Just like the rest of the wiring). Is there any known external tests for an ECU, or any suggestions as to finding this fault. Any help would be fantastic.}
Monday, December 26, 2005 - 06:22 pm, by: Paul Drane(Paulwd)
Hi there Rowan, I'm no expert with electrical stuff, have you checked your alarm system, I've tried to start mine a few times without turning off the alarm. Probably not what your trouble is just a suggestion.
Monday, December 26, 2005 - 07:52 pm, by: Rowan Parker(Rowan)
Thanks for the reply Paul. The alarm does still activate and deactivate as normal, and the starter still cranks the engine. I don't think the alarm effects the ECU without effecting the starter. Thanks all the same Paul, I appreciate your time.}
Don Bagnall Moderator New Zealand 1991 UZZ30 GT4.0 V8
Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 08:53 am, by: Don Bagnall(Baggs)
to Soarer Central, Rowan. I'm sorry, but I have no knowledge of your problem , and the man who IS most likely to know, Neil Griffiths, is on hols at the mo, BUT he may check into the site every now and again, so hopefully he (Or someone else) maybe able to shed some light on the problem.
My only thoughts are, that possibly the Ignitor has failed. We had/have a similar problem with a UZZ32 in NZ at the moment, where you can spin it no probs on the starter, and she won't fire. BUT if you leave it for 15 mins or so, it'l fire up fine . Neil thinks that in THIS instance it's pointing towards a faulty Ignitor. Also they DO run VERY hot (normal), but interestingly, Toyota didn't fit covers on them after 1994, which makes me suspect that the covers were trapping excess heat, thereby shortening the life of the module.
If you could obtain an Ignitor module to swap for testing purposes, it MAY assist with elimination of potentially faulty components.
Also the coils HAVE been known to go phut!, occasionally.
Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 09:55 am, by: Rowan Parker(Rowan)
Thanks for the thought Don, One thing that troubles me still is that it would be a fair coincidence that the ingniters would fail at the same time as the fuel pump ECU (or at least EFI output to the pump ECU)}. Also with no malfunction light on the dash, and diagnostics as mentioned. I can't at this time relate to why electronics are referred to as logic.
I had a similar problem, the engine shut down and when driving the gear jumped out, it was the fuse holder for the engine management who had melted from under neath.
Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 02:33 pm, by: Rowan Parker(Rowan)
Hi Jan, This certainly sounds like the area to be searching. I've been attacking the drivers quarter panel wiring and I've had to walk away for a break (before I destroy something or someone). This is not an area for a christmas belly and summer heat, so I might just browse the archives for the easier or proper way to remove this fuse box when the intention is to use it again some day. Many thanks for the advise Jan, persistence will win the day I'm sure.
Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 03:48 pm, by: Rowan Parker(Rowan)
I've already checked the ones under the bonnet, however there are 4 possibles in the foot-well. I just wish there was a better way to check their circuits, ie. at the ECU harness plug or something like that. Still I'm nearly there, and thanks again.
Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 11:20 pm, by: Rowan Parker(Rowan)
Hi Neil, Today I've had all the drivers side electrics out and it's not much fun, however I discovered that an Auto Watch alarm has been fitted (I've only had the car 3 weeks). There was the usual mess of sticky electrical tape over soldered joints (3 wires into 2 wires etc.). I rang the alarm company who fitted the unit to find that it is a 2 point kill, but they don't know to what. I checked with them to see if the sky would fall if I cut, re-soldered & heat shrunk all the wires, which I have done. I strongly suspect there is an interrupt to the ECU and the alarm would be top of the list, but I don't yet have a wiring diagram to trace these. I removed the ECU and tried to check for continuity between the kick panel fuse pins, alarm & ignition to the ECU pins, but I'm not sure of the fuse & wiring allocation. Here's a laugh, I also removed the dash to check or change the engine malfunction light to discover there isn't one. Not to worry, the reversing beeper got lost in the process so it wasn't a total waste of time. I've got it all together again as I've conceded it will have to go to an auto elecky, once they return from hollidays(I need to get some work done around here or I won't eat). Many thanks for all your time, it wasn't my intention to interrupt anyone's break.
Previous
to Soarer Central, Rowan. 
, and the man who IS most likely to know, Neil Griffiths, is on hols at the mo, BUT he may check into the site every now and again, so hopefully he (Or someone else) maybe able to shed some light on the problem. 
. Neil thinks that in THIS instance it's pointing towards a faulty Ignitor. 
