Japanese law restricts the cruise control to 108kph, frustrating for me when I can legally cruise on the open road at 110kph
Fortunately it is relatively easy to remove the cruise control limit of 108kph, with minimal tools - a 10 mm socket, a standard long socket set extension, and a uni-joint, preferably a slim one. Mine was bulky with a spring wrapped around it, so I borrowed a slimmer one for the job.
First, remove the three screws from the under dash panel then remove the panel itself. The panel also has a large clip around the steering column which just pulls away from the column, no need to undo the two screws mounting it to the panel.. Unplug the courtesy light and diagnostic socket - both twist and slide out.
Put the drivers seat right back and lay it back, then get under the dash with a torch. You will see the control box, it is held in by two bolts, one mounted to a bracket on the firewall, the other above the unit pointing towards the drivers groin at about a 45 degree angle. The box is about 12 cm long, above and between the pedals.
Here is the top bolt, pic supplied by Steve Janda.
Remove the plug, it has a push clip on the side and is easier to remove while the unit is mounted, then remove the two bolts and the unit will drop out.
Take the controller to your workbench and remove the bracket, then release the 4 plastic clips and slide the circuit board out.
Get a spare resistor and use one of the legs to make a simple wire bridge and solder into the two holes on the board marked J300 located here. Pic supplied by Steve Cheetam
Re-assemble the unit, then install back into the car, the top bolt may be a bit tricky to get back in, but it isn’t wise to leave it out. When refitting the under dash panel, be careful that the steering column clip fits right around the column and doesn’t get caught in the flutes.
I disconnected the battery while I did this job, apparently that isn’t required, though it had the advantage of resetting the ECU and the car definitely performed a bit livelier as a result.