Sunday, October 22, 2006 - 05:51 pm, by: Ben Kelly(Ace)
hope this is a simple problem with a simple fix. drive a v8 soarer with balanced rims, new lower control arm bushes, no trc, abs working fine; but get bad vibration on medium braking from over 50kph. Had the front discs machined and same problem. The vibration rattles the auto stick around a fair bit but i dont think its the gearbox as acceleration etc are smooth. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Wednesday, November 01, 2006 - 09:09 am, by: Rehan Bandara(Parsec)
I bought my soarer with big brake shudder. I have access to a lathe and a machinist as my slave so I got him to stick my rotors on and face them off. I can't remember the runout, but they were done fairly well and i didn't have much shudder in the short term. I did notice a little bit though.
Anyway, after driving for a while, eventually the shudder came back. I checked the runout and found that the front rotors had warped again. I finally pulled the rears off to find they also had the same problem. I suspect what was happening is the small amount of pulsating from the rears was causing fluctuations in the brake line's pressure, which would cause the fronts to slowly warp in sympathy with the rears. Because the fronts do most of the braking, its easy to look at their warp with a dial gauge and blame them entirely, despite all of the rotors being the culprit.
My suggestion: bite the bullet and just get all four rotors machined. If you call around you should be able to find someone that will do them for about $40 each provided you pull them off yourself and bring them in.
The other thing is, once you get them done, replace your brake pads (you might as well) and make sure you bed them in properly!
Wednesday, November 01, 2006 - 06:30 pm, by: Rehan Bandara(Parsec)
hey. i just noticed you live in lidcombe.
heh, i live in auburn. when i got all 4 done i took them to a guy in granville who was pretty nice and accomodating.
i didn't have any jack stands so basically i would jack the car up, pull the rotors off, drop them in the next morning before work and come pick them up in the afternoon. I then repeated the process the next day for the rears.
make sure you get all 4 done before you go driving.
that also reminds me, i couldn't actually find any aftermarket brake pads that would fit the fronts properly. the closest thing that ferodo made would interfere with the caliper. my solution: whip out the trusty old angle grinder and grind down the excess backing plate that caused the interference.
has anyone else had this problem?
don't know if there are any tutorials on brake pad replacement. a handy tip i can give you though is to go and buy a cheap g clamp so you can push the caliper pistons all the way in. you'll find that the caliper will be harder to fit over the rotor once the pads have been replaced.
Thursday, December 21, 2006 - 09:40 pm, by: Matt Worrad(Mworrad213)
I did the DBA factory tour earlier in the year and the bloke there really enforced that if you do not bed your brake pads into the freshly machined rotors properly if will develop brake shudder very quickly.
Also torque up wheel nuts with hand torque wrench not a rattle gun or socket they are both evil and will kill your rotors.
"Accelerate to 60 km/h and apply brakes with moderate to firm pressure and slow to 10km/h. Then accelerate back to 60km/h and repeat the process above 7-8 times."
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