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  Soarer Central * Brakes * TT brake upgrade - Time to Complete Previous Previous    Next Next  

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Mark Northcott
TryHard
NSW
UZZ30

Posts: 467
Reg: 10-2005

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Monday, October 23, 2006 - 06:05 pm, by:  Mark Northcott (My91gt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey guys as it says how long to do a complete swap over from V8 to TT brakes?? Say with 3 or 4 people working on it?? Or even if you have done it before how long did it take.
Please don't spill rubbish if it isn't to help with this topic. I only have a couple of days to complete that's why I ask.
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer
South Australia
GT4.0 V8

Posts: 6180
Reg: 11-2004

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Monday, October 23, 2006 - 06:27 pm, by:  Peter Nitschke (Pen) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

It's a very simple job, dealing with the dust shields (bending or cutting off) probably takes the longest time.

Loosen wheel nuts, jack car, place on stands.
Remove wheel, loosen brake hose, undo 2 calliper bolts.
Lift off calliper, remove brake hose and fit to new calliper to minimise fluid loss, sit new calliper on eg upturned bucket so it's not hanging on the hose.
Remove old rotor, fit new rotor.
Bend or remove dust shield.
Fit new calliper. Fit brake shoes.

Once all wheels are done:
Preferably flush the brake fluid, at the very least do a serious bleed to remove any air from the lines.

That is all going from memory, but should be pretty much all there is to it.

Suggestion, get new copper washers for the brake hose fittings.

An hour per wheel should be easy.
Blaine Hanson
TryHard
WA
1991 GT, 1993 GT, 1993 LTD, 1997 LTD

Posts: 411
Reg: 08-2005

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Tuesday, October 24, 2006 - 09:47 am, by:  Blaine Hanson (Blaine) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi Mark. It should be achievable in a good morning or afternoon session. Just make sure you have all the right tools. 1/2 drive socket set is handy - needs to be strong to undo the caliper bolts. I also bought a proper split wrench for bleeding the brakes so I didn't round off the caliper bleed nuts. Also remember the calipers are right hand / left hand specific, or you will have a lot of trouble bleeding the system as I did. I would also recommend you keep the front dust shields - just bend / modify to suit, or replace with new. A 3" grinder may come in handy depending on your approach. The rear shields are optional - bend or take off. The rear shields on my car were spot welded on. I broke these welds with a hammer & cold chisel. I currently run no shields on the back. It was recommended to me to keep the fronts by another member who didn't and had some issues, but I can't remember what the issues were. I also did the Supra upgrade so the disc's are a little larger so maybe the TT mods are easier. Penrite make some HP brake fluid called SIN. It is rated to 600+ degrees and well priced as compared to it's opposition. AutoOne stores stock it.
Jose-Antonio Castillo
DieHard
NSW
Soarer VVTi

Posts: 950
Reg: 07-2005

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Tuesday, October 24, 2006 - 10:53 am, by:  Jose-Antonio Castillo (Ahh_soarer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

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