| Author |
Message |
Tamatha Chapman
TryHard
SA
V8 GT LIMITED
Posts: 314
Reg: 02-2006
|
Well, as the thread says I'm trying to now work out which way to go for the next set of pads.
Have had the Bendix in for a while but they squeal real bad when your crawling through the drive through, yet pull up on a dime on a hills run.
Have read a few threads and am still tossing between the Lucas and Toyota pads. So thought I'd post this thread up to get peoples opinions on what they've had and what they recommend.
It's for a 91 V8, and yes I drive her hard - have snapped 3 engine mounts in the last year, so do need a pad that will pull up and not glaze over on a heavy run.
What do people suggest? |
Grant Rowan
TryHard
QLD
jzz30 TT
Posts: 104
Reg: 02-2006
|
I am using EBC Green Stuff. I have done 2 track days with them with slotted rotors and they still have plenty of meat left on them. They don't fade and they are still ok when cold (although they are better when warmed up!). however they are very dusty. |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 3081
Reg: 10-2005
|
Never had a set of Lucas pads I've been happy with. Toyota are very quiet and great for every day, even driving hard, but no idea what they are like on the track - they work for me though. |
Keenan Edinger
Tinkerer
WA
UZZ31 GT-L V8
Posts: 80
Reg: 02-2006
|
I've got Toyota too and they're great. No noise, very little dust, and perform well under all circumstances.
As with me too, I haven't tried them on the track, but they're a great pad and well priced too. |
Cara Joseph
TryHard
victoria
skyline T
Posts: 247
Reg: 04-2007
|
yeah i dont mind the toyota pads but i feel not enough pull slowing down at higher speed..Very little dust and noise indeed. |
Vinh Bui
Goo Roo
NSW
94 UZZ31 (V8) / 96 JZZ30 (TT) / 97 JZA80 (TT)
Posts: 2083
Reg: 07-2005
|
There's always TRD pads, but they're quite expensive. |
Dave Billings
TryHard
Louisiana
SC 300, Manual Transmission
Posts: 339
Reg: 06-2007
|
Diamond chip ceramics. I've changed my pads twice in the 10 years of ownership, and there was always plenty meat left on the bone!  |
Phil Gibson
Goo Roo
WA
'94 black/black UZZ31
Posts: 1133
Reg: 07-2005
|
I got TRD pads for the rear (TT brakes) but i dont think they make them for the fronts any more? |
Tamatha Chapman
TryHard
SA
V8 GT LIMITED
Posts: 315
Reg: 02-2006
|
Looks like the next set will be Toyota, won't hurt to give them a try.
Thanks for the input everyone, greatly appreciated. |
Daniel Clarke
Goo Roo
NSW
TT 2.5L 6 cylinder
Posts: 2398
Reg: 03-2006
|
Dave Billings wrote on Friday, October 05, 2007 - 12:12 am:Diamond chip ceramics. I've changed my pads twice in the 10 years of ownership, and there was always plenty meat left on the bone!
How many Rotors have you had to change though? |
Alen Sadikovic
TryHard
VIC
Soarer GTT
Posts: 276
Reg: 10-2006
|
Matthew Sharpe wrote on Thursday, October 04, 2007 - 02:03 pm:Never had a set of Lucas pads
i have them now, i paid for them $400 and i will never get them again. they fkn leave a mess all the time.
jst as i wash the rims, they get dirty again. better put that extra $150 or so and get proper ones |
Damian Ware
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ32
Posts: 586
Reg: 10-2005
|
.... I have just purchased Lucas pads. I paid $140 for both front and rears.
They should have a slight more amount of dust than OEM as they are soft and don't damage the rotors but provide a higher coefficient of friction.
I certainly wouldn't waste my time with toyota pads, they have a low coefficient of friction and a very low temperature range. On the up side they are quite and last a long time without damaging rotors. |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 3086
Reg: 10-2005
|
Alen Sadikovic wrote on Friday, October 05, 2007 - 02:56 pm: have them now, i paid for them $400 and i will never get them again. they fkn leave a mess all the time.
Thats why I hate them too. But how the hell did you manage to pay $400 for them? They are a budget brand! |
Neil Griffiths
Goo Roo
NSW
I have a Cadillac  and a Supercharged Manual V8 
Posts: 4202
Reg: 07-2005
|
Fluck me.
Genuine Pads are $200 for a set of front & rear.
No Dust.....And work a treat..
I NEVER fit anything else than GENUINE to Soarers.
( Except for track work )
You buy CHEAP..Then get used to the tradeoffs. |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer
South Australia
GT4.0 V8
Posts: 8440
Reg: 11-2004
|
Yeah, but they stop better.
OEM pads turned to glass on lap 4 (about 6 minutes) at Mallala.
Lucas pads went all day doing 30 minute sessions. They got a bit soft when really hot, but they kept on working.
Lucas pads also have more bite than OEM pads.
So what's a bit of dust?
Just to add, Lucas pads like to be run in with normal to mildly spirited driving for about 500k before doing serious and continous braking. |
Neil Griffiths
Goo Roo
NSW
I have a Cadillac and a Supercharged Manual V8
Posts: 4204
Reg: 07-2005
|
Peter Nitschke wrote on Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 07:37 pm:OEM pads turned to glass on lap 4 (about 6 minutes) at Mallala.
And how many of these blokes are gunna race on Mallala ?
If they were racers, they would'nt be complaining about brake dust ! |
Damian Ware
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ32
Posts: 588
Reg: 10-2005
|
Neil I see where you are coming.
Brake dust is a very small consideration paritularly given all brakes have some dust. The problem with low dust pads is they typically chew out rotors or they have no temp range and the pad fades after a few stops.
My reasoning for using Lucas I'm sick of having the pads completely stop working all of a sudden after 3 to 4 really hard stops. One brake application they work fine, then next you are not stopping. What I was looking for more bite and temp tolerance but still something streetable.
If the Lucas pads perform as I hope they will keep working when they get hot and provide more bite. With the only down side being a touch more dust. I cant confirm this yet though given the cost $140 for front and rear I was happy to try them. A mate uses them in his R33 and he informed me they are noticably better stopping than the Nissan pads with a touch more dust. I decided why spend $400 on Greenstuff to have a bit less dust find the pad will not only stop working but also fall apart when it gets hot.
The biggest problem I found in selecting suitable pads is lack of manufactures product information.
What I really want is a graph of coefficient of friction vs Temperature.
What also makes the choice tough is conflicting reports. Comments such as, I use XXX and never have a problem with them, or I used XXX and they are crap. These opinions don't take into account the application or the condition of the entire brake system condition, rotors, fluid ect.
In my TT the OEM pads held up ok, I think a pad upgrade would be all the car needed for great brakes. The extra weight of the 32 really works the brakes hard and the OEM pads cant keep up.
As for my brake system, they are in great shape, rotors have 0.5mm wear and are not glazed. The calipers are mint, every seal is perfect, the sliders and pistons work perfectly.
Brake fluid was changed less than 12 months ago and I had fade issue with new fluid. The fluid is currently being replaced when the new pads go in. I drained a small amount of fluid to check the condition and what came out of the system still looks good. I have always used the theory of new brake fluid every 12 months. Worked well for the passed 9 years so I plan to stick with it and do it all in one go (pads and fluid).
As for the accumulator, it still has quite a bit of pressure. Although it doesn't have any issues I'm sure it is not as good as new and I will be replacing it in the near future. Just to insure it continues to work reliably. |
Alen Sadikovic
TryHard
VIC
Soarer GTT
Posts: 283
Reg: 10-2006
|
Matthew Sharpe wrote on Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 03:00 pm:But how the hell did you manage to pay $400 for them
i have Supra GT brakes and calipers thats why |
Peter Nitschke
JunkFilterer
South Australia
GT4.0 V8
Posts: 8441
Reg: 11-2004
|
Neil Griffiths wrote on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 08:30 am:And how many of these blokes are gunna race on Mallala ?
If they were racers, they would'nt be complaining about brake dust !
Neil, I fully agree. If your driving style requires serious pads, you have to accept the trade off.
The dust comes off very easily too, so it's not a big job to clean the wheels up. |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 3088
Reg: 10-2005
|
Alen Sadikovic wrote on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 01:29 pm:i have Supra GT brakes and calipers thats why
Hah, lucky you, wish I did too.  |
Neil Griffiths
Goo Roo
NSW
I have a Cadillac and a Supercharged Manual V8
Posts: 4206
Reg: 07-2005
|
Pointless arguing about brake pads, as everybody drives differently.
Damian Ware wrote on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 10:10 am:What I really want is a graph of coefficient of friction vs Temperature.
And what would you do with that mate ? Run a thermometer on the rotor to tell you when they are at a certain temp !
So what if you have a 32..A little extra weight ain't gunna make that much differance.
Jeffro raced a stock 32 and didnt complain. ( And hes a mad crunt )
I HAVE race Wakefield WITH stock pads.. Because I knew they were stock, I treated them differently.
( And this was up against an R33 GTR ) And he had a hard time nailing me in a STOCK TT,,, Didn't he Tim 
I personally do NOT like Lucas pads on a Soarer. |
Damian Ware
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ32
Posts: 590
Reg: 10-2005
|
Again I do agree that you cant go wrong recommending what the manufacture supplies given they suit most applications.
Mate that graph is exactly what you need.
Important things it will show is at cold temperature friction, at what temperature the friction increases to the warm temperature friction and what is the maximum operating temperature where the friction drops off.
By itself you are correct this is of no use but when you have a selection of graphs to compare side by side it is a much more scientific way to compare compounds.
Combine the graphs with a basic knowledge of operating temperature after a certain number of repetitive stops.
Here is the best bit, even if you select the wrong pad first time (you will have at least come fairly close) but you have a comparison between OEM and the new pad. The odds are you will get the pad selection 100% right the next time.
As for weight, the 200kg makes a huge difference; compare this extra weight to approximately adding three passengers. |
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31
Posts: 3091
Reg: 10-2005
|
So racing aside, for road use...
Points in favour of OEM pads:
1) They don't squeal
2) They don't make your wheels dirty
3) They are pretty consistent
4) They last well
Works for me. |
Damian Ware
DieHard
Victoria
UZZ32
Posts: 591
Reg: 10-2005
|
I would agree with 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3.
They do make your wheels dirty to some existent, as most every brake pad will. I typically clean my wheels every two weeks, with OEM pads there is always visible dust on the front and the rears have just a touch.
As for being consistent, OEM pads require 1 stop to warm them up so they work well. Most performance type pads require one to two stops to warm them up so not much lost there. OEM pads last for 3 to 4 hard repetitive stops where as most performance pads will do 7 to 10 stops and with most driving they will have more than enough time to cool so that you will not have any fade issues.
If I was looking for an OEM replacement and wasn't worried about fade I would use Green Stuff, they have the highest friction that I can find about 20% higher than OEM, very low dust, they are quite, and do not damage rotors. Green Stuff probably have a higher temp range than OEM as well. The only reason I didn't use Green Stuff is when the pads to get cooked they fall apart or at least earlier generations did.
Suppliers of Green Stuff tell me this has been fixed and there are no longer any issues but I decided to try the Lucas pads instead as per Peters comments they can take the heat. |
Alen Sadikovic
TryHard
VIC
Soarer GTT
Posts: 286
Reg: 10-2006
|
Matthew Sharpe wrote on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 04:50 pm:Hah, lucky you
hehe not so lucky when it comes to changing the pads  |
Neil Griffiths
Goo Roo
NSW
I have a Cadillac and a Supercharged Manual V8
Posts: 4209
Reg: 07-2005
|
 |
Dave Billings
TryHard
Louisiana
SC 300, Manual Transmission
Posts: 396
Reg: 06-2007
|
Daniel Clarke wrote on Friday, October 05, 2007 - 10:40 am:How many Rotors have you had to change though?
Knock on wood, I have'nt changed the first one yet, turned them twice, but I barely put about 3000 miles a year on them, also. My next caliper and rotor change are going to be with TRD oversized ventilated. Not that I have as much horse power and needing them, I just think they will look cool! |
Max Rockatanski
Tinkerer
BadenWuerttemberg
TT
Posts: 8
Reg: 09-2007
|
I use the redstuff from ebc, no more fading like the oem parts. i killed a set of oem on one day on the racetrack, ok, they havent been new, but they melted like butter in the sun...
With the red stuff pads there will come another problem - the rotors will heat up and glass...
best way? change to supra calipers & rotors from eu spec JZA80?
Greets Rocka |
Damien Murray
Tinkerer
kildare
93 Soarer TT
Posts: 40
Reg: 10-2006
|
has no one had endless pads ?
iv had there there base Y sport pads all round on road and track for the last 6months and find them very good on and off the track.
there a bit dusty but the lack of fade/glazeing after 30min going hard round my local track in ireland [mondello] made my mind up about them.
the endless site also has temp guides for there pads and what the pad is made for street,winding road and track |
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