Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 05:59 am, by: Lawrence Tan(Tonkatsu)
Hi all
I have just recently acquired a 91 UZZ31 and what a joy it is. I am in the process of ironing out all the little bugs with it to bring it back to its former glory.
I've spent the last few days reading up any brake related articles that I can. Problem is that at the moment my brakes do work but it requires a fair bit of pressure and a lot of brake pedal travel before they fully engage. Ie at a traffic stop I need to press quite firmly for the car to stay still( this is compared to my other car a Mazda 2).
I've had a look at the discs and pads, they aren't in the best condition but still have life left in them.
The fluid looks like a dark orange brown which doesn't look like it has been changed in awhile.
If I pump the brakes a few times when the car is off , switching it to on I can hear the brake pump whirring away for 10-20 seconds and then it stops.
The nitrogen accumulator I have no idea to check.
At this stage I'm really hoping its just air in the old fluid and that a fluid change is the way to go? Fingers crossed that master cylinder and nitrogen accumulator are okay.
Has anyone else had similar issues to what I described?
Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 11:36 am, by: Lawrence Tan(Tonkatsu)
I've read some more into this, the boiling point of DOT 4 is easy enough to understand. and DOT5 is a no no because of it being silicone based rather than glycol based.
there seems to be a following of people using Castrol super response DOT4 as its compatible with DOT 3 applications.
To fully protect the seals would it be better just to stick to DOT3. The car is a weekender for cruising so it wont see much spirited driving.
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Monday, August 20, 2012 - 10:01 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Most people who drive my Soarer comment that the brakes are "touchy" compared to their (ordinary saloon car) brakes
My UZZ30 had pretty dull brakes that often struggled to pull the car up when I first got it - changing the pads and rotors sorted that out - the old pads must have been super hard, and the old rotors were nearing end of life - pretty much right on minimum thickness.
Recently replaced the front rotors on my JZZ31, along with the brake lines & pads - I've not noticed anything when driving this time, but then the old pads were good quality.
Peter Nitschke Junk Filterer South Australia UZZ30 UZZ31
Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 11:51 am, by: Matthew Sharpe(Madmatt)
Yes, I put Lucas pads on the front last time after reading so much about them here - they are pretty dusty but they are great street pads - work well from cold which is what I want. I'll do the same for the rear next time they are due (and will do the rotors at the same time, as they are probably also close to their use-by thickness)
Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 09:24 am, by: Gary Redman(Gary)
Lawrence, the original V8 were really only average to start with. The best mod is to change the front calipers and discs to TT ones which are bigger. Then with a good set of pads you will be better off.
Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 01:38 pm, by: Ali Saeed(Ali)
Lawrence I have found that v8 soarers with TRC have long pedal travel compared to normal vaccum based systems. getting a functional TRC Nitrogen Accumulator would definitely improve pedal feel, as will steel braided brake hoses
Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 02:27 pm, by: Lawrence Tan(Tonkatsu)
Thank Ali
Further digging around reveals they are only a replacement item. I read up on a few guys in NSW getting them valved and regassed by Peter Taplin but I'm not sure if this is still available?
Wednesday, October 31, 2012 - 07:19 pm, by: Peter Smith(Smithie123)
Hi can any body tell me what this problem may be(apart from buying a soarer)At idle my brake accumulater moves back and forwards and a relay on the passenger side makes a click sound at the same time?Any ideas?Thanks