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Jack Lloyd
TryHard
Northern Territory
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 155
Reg: 01-2012

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 01:34 am, by:  Jack Lloyd (J_lloyd) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey guys. Just attempting to get some new RDA pads and disks on for much needed braking power!



Now i am stuck trying to get the pads to fit in the caliper and get the whole lot back onto the disk and mounts. The cylinder things inside the caliper wont allow enough room for me to get the pads on and slip the caliper over the disk.

Ive tried searching for a pad change guide but all of the similar posts aren't helping. Have i something up bad?

Please help.
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Matchy Loi
DieHard
VIC
GTT

Posts: 570
Reg: 06-2006

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 01:58 am, by:  Matchy Loi (Ftk148) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

G-Clamp.

Use one to push the piston (cylinder thing) back into the caliper.

One side of the G on the back of the caliper, one one the piston. You may need to put something in between the clamp piston and the caliper piston as it'll just slip into the piston itself. You can use a strong piece of metal, or even the pad itself.

Be careful not to crush any hoses or fittings on the rear of the housing.
Matchy Loi
DieHard
VIC
GTT

Posts: 571
Reg: 06-2006

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 02:01 am, by:  Matchy Loi (Ftk148) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Upload


Like so
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 6922
Reg: 10-2005

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 06:38 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I just use a large pair of pollygrips set to the correct width, with a couple of vinyl strips over the jaws so they don't scar the metal - G clamp would do the job too but might be a bit harder to fit in. You can actually get a special tool for this job, but it's a bit of a waste of money really, unless you are doing the job all the time, as it's not of any use for anything else.

Make sure you remove the cap from your brake fluid reservoir and remove any excess fluid with a syringe.

Last tip, smear a bit of copper grease onto the pads and backing plates - helps with heat transmission and reduces brake squeal.
Jack Lloyd
TryHard
Northern Territory
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 156
Reg: 01-2012

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 09:09 am, by:  Jack Lloyd (J_lloyd) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sweet! Thanks heaps guys. Ill give it a shot tonight. Will the pistons stay in the "in" position if i remove the g clamp after pushing them back in?
Matchy Loi
DieHard
VIC
GTT

Posts: 572
Reg: 06-2006

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 09:35 am, by:  Matchy Loi (Ftk148) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes they will, pressing the brake pedal will push them out again.
Jack Lloyd
TryHard
Northern Territory
JZZ30 TT

Posts: 157
Reg: 01-2012

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 12:30 pm, by:  Jack Lloyd (J_lloyd) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Matchy Loi wrote on Wednesday, February 12, 2014 - 09:35 am:


Cheers for the help bro, much appreciated.
Casey Perkins
TryHard
Tasmania
TT

Posts: 234
Reg: 08-2011

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Saturday, February 15, 2014 - 10:33 pm, by:  Casey Perkins (Caseyp) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ensure you drain/suck out some fluid from the brake fluid reservoir before you start to push the pistons back, otherwise it will push past the seal under the cap and leak all over your paint!!!!
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 6928
Reg: 10-2005

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Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - 07:08 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

By the way, use the copper grease on the BACK of the pad, not the front! (I know, seems obvious but just thought I'd better make sure!)
Shane Haverkamp
Goo Roo
nsw
soarer TT

Posts: 1043
Reg: 10-2007

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Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - 03:14 pm, by:  Shane Haverkamp (Havabeer) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

isn't the brake squeal there to let you know the pads are worn...
Ian Rigby
TryHard
NSW
'97 AE102, '95 JZZ30

Posts: 196
Reg: 11-2010

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Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - 07:21 pm, by:  Ian Rigby (Hiro) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Shane Haverkamp wrote on Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - 03:14 pm:

isn't the brake squeal there to let you know the pads are worn...




Different squeal, there's a metal bracket attached to the pad that will scrapes the disc when the pads are worn down far enough, causing a squeal to tell you it is time to change the pads.

Putting copper grease on the back of the pad stops the squealing noise from the pad squirming around on the piston as it grips the disc (there is always a bit of float in the pad so it doesn't bind up). Some pads/calipers have metal shims which do the same job
Matthew Sharpe
Goo Roo
North Island
JZZ31

Posts: 6929
Reg: 10-2005

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Friday, February 21, 2014 - 07:44 am, by:  Matthew Sharpe (Madmatt) Quote hilighted text Edit Post Delete Post Print Post   View Post/Check IP (Moderator/Admin Only) Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes, I'm talking about squeal from new pads, not worn pads The Soarer has a set of two anti-squeal plates on each pad, but in practice I've found that sometimes isn't enough to stop some pads from making irritating noises, so I still put copper grease on the back of the pad before putting the plates on over the top.

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