Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:40 am, by: Adam Smith(Adman)
I hope I have described this right, but I have added a pic for clarity. Now if one of you helpful lads has one, could you please confirm a price (don't ask me, I have no idea... worth a carton of beer I reckon) And also include some idea of freight or your charge to take the item to a courier as I am in sunny QLD and have no intention of jumping in my lear jet to come pull the sucker out and bring it home... Thank you
Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 07:55 am, by: Adam Smith(Adman)
I have an intermittent internal earthing short somewhere in that system Dave. I had a photo-electrics mob run a secondary (to the cars) diagnostic on the system, and I have an electrical short somewhere in that lump of bits.... Ultimately, I could attempt to find the short myself, but I have neither the time nor the inclination.
Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 03:50 pm, by: Dave Hart(Davyboy)
The short is probably in the motor, so take it all out, pull the motor cover off, clean it all out, check the brushes and free up if sticky. After that get an auto lecky to run his meter over it again. If ok put it back in and see how you go. They aren't a serviceable part so if you need to replace it then you can only buy the motor/pump assembly as one or the whole unit. There's not much difference in the price so it's economic to buy the whole thing.
Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 07:00 am, by: Adam Smith(Adman)
So Dave, mine looks different to the one you did the pictures of, is it just the hood that makes it look that way? Also, isn't the pump for nitrogen gas or something similar, is regassing an issue? And your system was showing an open circuit, mine is reporting the same.... did the clean fix yours, you never actually said...
Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 09:27 am, by: Dave Hart(Davyboy)
You'll find that you canister has a rubber boot over it and underneath will be the same. The canister is pressed up with high pressure nitrogen which sits on top of the piston. These over time will gradually lose that pressure. If they do then at present it is a throw away job and you'd need to buy a new one ($300). As the nitrogen pressure gets right down then you'll find that the pump will run progressively longer and more often until it runs for so long that you'll get an ABS/TRC fault (from that little yellow wire I mentioned - I think). The pump is in the brake fluid side and as it builds up pressure it will move that piston in the canister up against the nitrogen pressure until the pressure switch on the end of the pump tells the motor to stop. It could be a two way pressure switch which will then tell the motor to start again when the pressure falls. Now if there's an open circuit in the motor it won't run at all and you'll end up with no brake boost at all and it will take all of your foot pressure on the pedal to stop the car. Also if like me the ABS/TRC alarm will go 'bing bing' all the time. Not too sure if a clean will fix it because it depends if the short is just due to dirt and stuck brushes or if there's a break in the rotor windings. Once you have the unit out and a lecky gives it a going over then you'll know. Until then we're just guessing, but I'd say it's more than likely to be dirt/brushes rather than a burnt out motor. Of course even if it's just a clean that's required there's still the problem over it happening again. I've no experience of how long between cleans but replacing the o-ring that sits inside that seal at the entrance to the pump and goes over the motor/pump shaft will prolong the time between cleans. A few times of taking the unit out to do this (6-8 goes) will soon add up to the cost of replacing with new which will be good for another 15 yrs. Go along with what the lecky says. Hope this helps.
Friday, February 03, 2006 - 02:53 pm, by: Adam Smith(Adman)
Dave my pump hardly ever runs (just a couple of seconds on startup), which leads me to believe that the seals etc are OK. Sorry to keep dragging this out (but I intend to look at it this weekend...)I can pull all this apart and the canister will remain charged?? Sorry mate... dumb questions... I just noticed hollow lines in your pics, figured SOMETHING went in 'em....
Friday, February 03, 2006 - 06:30 pm, by: Dave Hart(Davyboy)
If the motor runs, even now and then, the motor will be ok but there still could be intermittent faults, ie with brushes sticking due to dirt. The canister will just unscrew in the usual fashion. Be careful as the brake fluid could be under pressure, The nitrogen in the canister will remain under charge as the piston will seal it but as the pressure at the brake fluid side drops then the piston will move down to it's bottom stop inside the canister. This will force the brake fluid out of the bottom as you remove it. In the picture of the piston, it has two o-rings and each has a nylon piston ring, each side, which just holds the o-rings centrally in their grooves and protect them from the edges of the groove. These have 'scarfed' ends to allow for fitting into the canister.
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