hello everyone my names Tristan and i own a 1986 gz10. i am in two minds on wheather to sell my car or put a manuel box in it and race it. the car is all origanal and in mini condition but the cost of converting the box (is it worth it?). if anyone is interested in the car i would sell it for $4,000
Tristan Rayner wrote on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 12:49 pm:
ok so does the 1g-gte engine bolt straight in and how hard is one to get?
hey mate.. i was in a similar position a few years back..
i had a gz10, but factory manual..
here is some advice from someone who has done it before.
1. i'd definitely convert to manual.. autos are gay.. that is all 2. while you are at it, definitely go for a 1ggte.. 3. make sure you get a motor with engine mounts attached.. the NA ones DO NOT FIT.. due to where to turbo oil drain goes. also, depending on what the motor comes out of, you may need to change the location of the mounts on the motor itself. mine came from a z20, i needed to shift the mounts forward on the motor and modify one of the holes with a grinder 4. make sure you get a motor complete with harness and ecu.. wiring this into the factory harness is a cnut.. especially the dash.. 5. the factory manual these came with is a w55.. but anything like the w55, 56, 58 etc.. will fit.. they just have different gear ration.. 6. finding a manual box will be easy.. finding the x-member, pedal box, master cylinder etc.. to suit a z10 may be more tricky.. 7. Upgrade your fuel pump when going from NA to turbo.
for the record mine made 276rwhp with a high flowed ct26 on 15psi.. i had plenty of fuel spare.. could have easily gone 300 with a tune.. but i only had SAFC2.. which is about as useful as tits on a bull..
trust me, that sort of HP in a car that weighs next to nothing.. 1200kg's odd.. is plenty..
if you are serious about racing it though start with suspension, diff etc...
they actaully handle quite well with a decent suspension set up..
i had s13 front end with Tein coilovers and adjustable strut tops from a s13..the way that the bolt holes line up gives you additional castor as well. (research this conversion, its worth it)
the rear is a little trickier.. but there are plenty of options out there..
the mounts for the na 1g and turbo 1g are different..
youll find that there are 6 factory holes not 4.
the middle holes remain common, but depending on what car it goes into, the mounts will either bolt to the 2 more forward or 2 more rearward holes.
my memory of what exactly we did is a little sketchy as the conversion was done before my bro's birthday.. and went something like this..
Sat 10am- start working on conversion 11am- engine out, start drinking. 11-12- fit all pedals, clutch master, lines etc. 12- stop for lunch, have many a beer 1-3 swap gearbox over from NA to turbo motors have some beers 3-4 try get motor in, go first time- drink 4-5 get motor in, but sitting in wrong position. drink 5-6 swap mounts over.. modify mounts with grinder..while drinking several beers. 6-7 sump fouling on x-member.. just get drunk
Sun 7am- no sleep, still drunk..swap sumps 8am-10am- put motor in while recovering, having breakfast etc... 11am- motor in. start drinking again.. the rest is a blur..
I would recommend selling, and buying a 3rd gen, either a TT or a v8, then doing a conversion. either choice will get you a car that can be modified to extreme amounts of power, in a more modern vehicle (in the case of the jz series of motors, in excess of 1,000hp with extreme modification. a stock tt auto will probably outperform your car with a manual, and it will only get faster, and bear in mind there are a lot more people that know how to modify a 3rd gen than a second gen, so advice and help will be easier to come by
it really depends on what level you wanna take things to..
i personally hate the look of the jzz30 (3rd gen) soarer in stock form.. they handle soooo poorly its not even funny.. so to start with you will need aftermarkete swaybars front and rear, decent coilovers, proper LSD etc...
that will make it handle like a car instead of a boat..
other problem is that you will need to either find a factory manual or do a r154 conversions.. because autos are gay... and about as much fun as drowning..
r154 conversion on a jzz30.. hmmm lets take a stab at $3.5k.. and thats if you can do the work yourself..
so to get a car that will be fun to drive and handle properly you are looking at roughly $6k.. on top of purchase price..
having said that, the availability of aftermarket suspension parts for z30's is impressive given they share many parts with the jza80... but they arent cheap either, you are looking at $700+ for adjustable control arms.. (front only)
so if you have a ftruck load of money to spend, sure go a jzz30.. but for the love of god dont keep it stock..
sure in a straight line a stock jzz30 will win.. but straight line is massively gay.. and a properly set up z10 will schite all over z30's all day in the twisty stuff..
z10 also has mucho suspension parts available.. especially if you go s13 front end.. not to mention z10's weigh about 400kg's less than z30's so you are already WAAAAY ahead there..
as for advice, there are plenty of people who know how to modify each series of soarer.. find someone with technical knowledge and get their advice.. dont listen to people who get all their information from forums... they are generally full of
good luck mate.. keep us updated on progress/your decision...