Monday, August 29, 2005 - 04:28 pm, by: Shane Standley(Uestlove)
Hey guys,
Note: this is for the IS200, But I belive its the same for Soarer. As you may know,I had to change my wheel studs, as I snapped a couple last week. Its not hard at all to change!
Ok first off, loosen all 10 nuts on the 2 front wheels, jack the car up, high enough to place jack stands on either side. Once the car is safley on the stands, take the wheels off.
Now its time to take off the calipers. I needed to take the pads out (14mm bolt) but if there is enough clearance you wont need to. There are 2 bolts, this is where you need the 17mm spanner. They are on quite tight, but using WD40, letting it sit for a min or two, loosens them up, if needed use the hammer on the spanner to break it up.
I undid the bottom bolt first, then proceeded to the top. I had a friend help, the caliper is not light. Before i undid the last bolt, I placed 4 pavers on the ground, so i can rest the caliper on.
Ok, now that the caliper is off, and sitting firmly on the pavers (You can use whatever, i just had pavers handy) the disc should be very easy to slide off. Some cars have 2 screws holding the disc to the hub, but strangley, the IS doesnt. Once you have taken the disc out, its time to get rough!
Grab a hammer, and start bashing the studs out! Before you do this, spray a bit of WD40 on each bolt, just to loosen them up a bit. This should take no more than 1 min to do!
Ok, so we have the wheel off, caliper, disc, and now the studs out! All you should see is the hub now.
Ok, place them in the hub (One by One) from behind. you will not be able to just push them in with your hand, I had to BASH each one, till they were tight. This is not the only part, as I found out the hard way (Wheels didnt, fit, it was like a 5 x 100 pcd haha), the studs will go in crooked. Once you have put them in with a hammer, get a nut, and bolt it on, tighten it as much as possible, and continue to do it to the other 4. This will make sure each stud is now straight, and back to that 5x114.3 configuration!
Now once all studs are on, we are pretty much done. Place the disc back on (i used this as an excuse to upgrade to RDA Slotted @ $120 each). Place the caliper back on, and the pads. This will hold the disc in place. Put the rims back on, tighten all nuts in a star configuration. Lower the car down, re tighten all the nuts again, and bobs your uncle!
Cost of the project (not including $280 tow from wakefield haha) was exactly $290, but that was including the purchace of 10 lug nuts and Slotted Disc.
Wheels Studs from Toyota @ $3 each = $30 ( I did all the front) Wheel lug nuts from Big O Tyres @ $2 each =$20 (got 10) RDA Slotted discs from a friend @ $120 each = $240
Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 02:11 am, by: Peter Nitschke(Pen)
From another post by Brian Timms.
What you need to replace a stud (the wheel stud, not the man-stud):
- Tools to remove wheel - Tools to remove brake caliper - screwdriver to remove the screw that holds the brake disc in. - Hammer to belt the broken/worn studs back - New Stud/studs - about 1.5 - 2cm worth of washers that fit over the new studs - wheel brace.
What to do:
- Block 2 of the tires that will remain firmly grounded (so you can leave the brakes left off, no handbrake, no foot brake) - jack up car and remove the wheel as if you where putting a spare on (Don't forget to use jack stands, safety is VERY important!) - Use sockets (18mm socket on a Nissan 180sx, not confirmed on a Soarer) to remove the 2 large bolts that hold the Caliper on. - Lift Caliper up and hold out of the way with some handy wire. - undo the small screw that holds the rotor/disc onto the hub. - slide the rotor/disc towards yourself (away from car) to remove and reveal the rub and the studs. - inspect the studs for damage and wear. - Use hammer to gently but firmly belt the studs back towards the centre of the car. - after the studs are removed, check the holes to make sure there is not damage to the hub (shouldn't be if you haven't belted it with a hammer). - get the new stud and slide it in from the back twisting it clockwise/anticlockwise as you slide it forward (so that the grooves end up lining up as it seats). - Once stud can no longer be pushed into the hole (from behind), get a wheel nut and your wheel brace, and start winding. - Once the nut can no longer go on any further, take it back off and place about 1 cm thick of washers onto the stud, and start the process all over again. - Repeat this process until you are completely sure that you can not pull the stud through any further. - Don't be scared to pull put a lot of pressure on, unless you use some sort of leverage, or your a super-strong person, you wont be able to produce enough power through a standard wheel brace to damage the new stud. -Repeat process for any other new studs. - Reverse the removal of items as you replace everything and re-build the brakes, and replace the wheel.
If you have done everything right, you will have a new stud/studs, wont have to bleed the brakes (didn't undo the caliper to cause air in the lines).
My personal advice is that once you have done 1,000kms on that side, you re-check the tension on the studs, to make sure the stud hasn't pulled through any further.
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