Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 12:02 pm, by: Barry Main(Barry_m)
Gary,
As a relatively new member of the forum, I just want to thank you for going to so much trouble and so much detail. Only a mug could get this wrong. You obviously love your Soarer and love doing your own work. More power to you. Keep up the good work next time you tackle something significant.
Mike Beck Goo Roo New Zealand Soarer Limited UZZ31 & Soarer 3.0GT JZZ31
Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 02:08 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
I was going to write one up. I took heaps of notes and photos as I did my 100000km service. Just as I finished the service this was posted. I couldn't improve on it so I well enough alone.
The only difficult thing is that damn 22mm nut on the harmonic balancer...
Andrew Stewart TryHard Queensland Manual GT-T VVT-i Single Turbo
Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 05:16 pm, by: Andrew Stewart(Daboom)
i totally agree, the process (except for the damn harmonic ballancer, it broke my mechanic's snap on breaker bar, and it took a 3/4" rattle gun (1200nm) to break the factory loctite, man it is strong stuff!!!) anyway, once you get the harmonic ballancer off, the job is fairly painless and takes around 2 hours, as i said, once you get the ballencer bolt undone, and off
Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 06:46 pm, by: Dave Rose(Sand_groper)
Always try and use a rattle gun to break the 22m/m bolt as a breaker bar puts a lot of strain on the engine mounts especially the passenger side if you have to use a bar use a long one and have a gap of at least 4 inchs before it hits the ground.
Friday, August 29, 2008 - 06:15 pm, by: Brian Timms(Turbo_brian)
James,
I had a similar issue.
My first attemp was a 1200CCA battery, a 22mm FLAT socket, and a breaker bar wedged ont the ground, and turning the engine over, this resulted first time in me snapping a cheap breaker-bar, and second through 8th time actually lifting the front of the car off the ground (note, remove ignition pack when doing this so the engine doesn't actually start (that's bad m-kay).
BEST thing to do is to head to Toyota and get the nut removing tool, you might need to order it on, but it is basically a tool that fits over the bolt, and bolts onto the harmonic balancer, then a second bit goes inside it, and you use both the arms (about 1.5 meters in length) to lever and crack the bolt.
The other 2 options are less prefered, but in order they are: Option 1: Use soft nylon rope, remove spark plug on cylinder 1 and feed the nylon rope into the cylinder, leaving obviously enough to pull it back out, but having enough to fill up the gap, then turn the motor by hand until it locks up, and use a massive lever to GENTLY crack the bolt.
Option 2: Heat the head of the bolt RED hot to melt any locktite, rust, corrosion from the bolt, and immediate while red hit the bolt with a bloody strong rattle gun (Be aware, that an adverse reaction from this is that you could infact heat the bolt to much, and rattle gun the head off requiring drilling and tapping the thread, or you could damage the lower front bearings from heat (like I did).
I have spoken to people who have done the nylon rope method, and it's far superior for the back yard mechanic, because it gives you control on what's happening, the pressures, the tensions, etc.
Also, from experience, a rattle gun wont get off stupidly stubburn bolts as good as good old fashioned leverage, I tried with a few bolts on a friends car, used a 1/2" drive rattle on 250psi, bolts didn't budge, got a breaker bar, extender pipe, and long socket, and gently applied leverage, and the bolt gently and smoothly cracked, and started unwinding, then it was back to regular ratchet and socket for the rest.
Friday, August 29, 2008 - 06:57 pm, by: James Barnett(James85)
Thanks Brian! I've already tried the the first option with no luck. I might have a look into the nut removal tool from Toyota but I'm guessing it will be expensive.
Option 1 sound like a plan, will give that one a go tomorrow! fingers crossed
Ben Socratous Goo Roo SA I am the fibreglass/kevlar/carbonfibre king!
Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 08:19 am, by: Ben Socratous(Socrates)
When I did mine we fist tried the rattle gun that we had on hand, I think it was around the 700nm mark? It failed. Whipped out the snap-on 1200nm gun and the bolt quivered at the sight of the fearsome bolt turning power I held before me!
Then again, I did everything with the motor on the bench, making a tad easier too. lol
Friday, September 12, 2008 - 05:47 pm, by: Gary Rollason(Garyr)
Whilst I would love to claim authorship of the tutorial, that honour belongs to Barned01, whoever he may be. I just provided the link. I can only say that I wish I had found it PRIOR to doing the job myself. Fortunately I didn't have any problems with the 22mm harmonic balancer bolt, but I must say that I cannot stress enough how important it is to set top dead centre and align the timing marks on the crank and both cams. Would have saved me the hassle of pulling everything apart again twice to reset the timing. Good advice about the 22mm bolt Brian and Matthew.
Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 10:50 pm, by: Cameron James(Dinosoarer)
Note to 1JZ owners who dont have access to air tools, can't undo the crank bolt using a breaker bar and the starter torque or dont want to pop the starter out to lock the motor - here is a tip...
Find an old serpentine belt and cut out a section so it covers the crank pulley surface - then lock some chain grips (vice grips with chain) onto the pulley and wedge it against the water pump (below)
The section of belt stops the chain grips damaging the pulley surface - works a treat - i just finished pulling mine apart!
Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 07:26 pm, by: Claude Tetlow(Claude)
Isn't there a chance the rubber in the harmonic balancer will de-laminate if you grip the outer ring? I think that's why the toyota tool bolts to the inside part of the balancer.
I'm due to do my 200000km service. I'll try a few different methods no doubt.
Has any one taken out the starter motor and successfully held the ring gear? If I were handy with steel I'd make something that bolts in where the starter goes and has teeth that mesh with the ring gear.
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