Wednesday, December 31, 2008 - 11:54 am, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
ok heres a rundown on clutch R&R
Firstly get it on a hoist of jacked up, move into the interior and remove the gear knob. Remove drink holder, its just clipped in so just pull it out. The centre gear stick surround is also clipped in, just get your hands under it and pop it off, there are 4 clips, 1 at each corner.
Next remove the centre console outer surround, the section that has the heater and volume control knob on it. There are about 6 bolts holding it on, under the area of the centre gear stick surround. Remove them and it will basically just pull of, grab onto the sides around the stereo and pull it back, theres 2 clips at the top, once they have released you will need to remove the plugs that go to the heater and speaker. Also will need to remove the plug going to the cigarette lighter.
Now there are 4 bolts holding the gear stick boot on, 1 at each corner, 10mm bolts or screwdriver. Swivel helps to get around the section of colsole. Once those are removed, pull the boot up and remove the 3rd boot which has the steel surround on it. Next you will see a small square boot over the transmission where the selecter comes out, pull that off and theres 4 bolts, remove them 10mm, and you can them remove the gear stick. Thats all the interior stuff done.
Now i like to disconect the battery, makes working around the starter motor safer for it, yourself and the car electronics, you dont want anything shorting out.
Jack the car up on the hoise and move to the rear driveshaft damper. Remove the 3 bolts holding the driveshaft to the rubber damper(17mm), remove the heat shield above the cat converter, to gain access to centre bearing bolts. I couldnt remove the shield completely on account of the cat heat sensor bolts being seized. the RHS bolt you can get to through the gap in the shield, the LHS i just bent the shield slighly to gain access. (14mm bolts if i remember correctly) Now just slide the shaft towards the transmission slightly to remove the rear driveshaft of the spline. Then monouvre it backwards past the diff so that the spline comes out of the transmission, you can leave the shaft up there as the exhaust will support it. (saves mucking around trying to get it back up there haha.
There are 2 plugs going into the transmission, unclip and route the wiring out of the way. Next Remove the 2 plates on the side of the bellhousing, which will gain you access to the release fork and pressure plate bolts. (12mm bolts)
Remove slave cylinder (2 12mm bolts) Use a ziptie or 2 to wrap around the slave to hold the pushrod, otherwise it will slowly retract and you will have brake fluid everywhere and have to bleed the system again.
Also a good idea to drain the tranny fluid, otherwise it will come spilling out the rear spline when u try to remove it haha.
Pull the clutch fork out. Next unbolt the 6(12mm bolts) holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, undo them progressivly as to not deform the diaphram of the clutch. slide back onto tranny input shaft out of the way.
Now remove the 2 14mm lower bellhousing bolts, this will have a bracket attatched to the downpipe flange, remove the bracket.
Remove the rest of the bellhousing bolts, theres about 5 17mm bolts and 4 14mm bolts, as well as the 2 starter motor bolts (14mm)
Now if you can borrow a tranny stand, makes a 2 or 3 man job into a 1 man job. Support the tranny with th stand and remove the 4 14mm crossmember bolts, i also removed the inner 4 12mm bolts and got rid of the crossmember all together, less crap laying around is easier in my opinion. Now basically let the tranny jack down a bit, this will give you easier access to the top bellhousing bolts. I used a extra long extension with a 17mm socket, universal and rattle gun.
My upper bellhousing bolt toolks
Once they are removed, get a lever and release the tranny from the block. Once released its just a matter of lowering the tranny straight down. The reason you remove the clutch from the flywheel when its still bolted to the block is that the tranny input shaft dosnt clear the release bearing sleeve when its bolted t othe flywheel is because the starter motor protrusion in the tranny binds with the transmission tunnel.
Remove flywheel bolts, remove flywheel, send it of to get machined, remove spigot bearing, i just used a slide hammer to remove it. Knock in new spigot bearing.
Inside bellhousing
clean transmission and bellhousing of grease and clutch dust. Grease pivot point for release form, tranny input shaft and spline, and the area that the release bearing sleeve slides on.
Install new release bearing into new clutch with snaprings, and install the release bearing sleeve. Slide onto input shaft and place the clutch disk on in the correct direction, it should say "flywheel side" on 1 of the sides, if not, the part that protrudes faces towards the transmission and the flat face towards flywheel.
New clutch
Transmission ready to go up
When you get the flywheel back, clean it with brake fluid, and install onto the crankshaft with new flywheel bolts. Make sure to threadlock them sufficiently, as oil can make its way through the bolt holes if ther enot sealed properly.
Then its a matter of jacking tranny back up, bolting the bellbousing to the block, doing the pressure plate bolts up progressivly so you dont distort the diaphram. Replace the rest of the bits, as well as the crossmember, reinstall slave, bellhousing plates, driveshaft, cat heat shield, exhaust bracket etc. Reinstall gearstick, along with rubber boots, surrounds and gearstick. And go enjoy your new clutch. Make sure to be easy on it for the next 200 or so ks, just to break it in, you dont want to glaze it.
Tranmission getting jacked up ready for crossmember
Crossmember installed
Tranmission bolted up, pressure plate still not bolted
Starting to bolt all 6 pressure plate bolts up
Using a 22mm socket on harmonic balancer nut so i can tighten clutch plate bolts nice and tight
Also notice the serpentine belt, i noticed it when i removed the cover to get to the balancer bolt, it was of by 2 ribs HAHA
Wednesday, December 31, 2008 - 03:04 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
there was meant to be more pictures over the whole job, but like most things i got cought in the moment of getting it apart and backtogether that i forgot haha.
Sunday, September 19, 2010 - 12:04 pm, by: David Henderson(Hendo)
Ive just installed the snap rings, I can see why that would be impossible whilst on the car! Just wondering though, Have I got the rings around the right way?
So on the gearbox side of the clutch fingers-
delrin washer- wavy washer- snap ring right?
Also, when the pressure plate is floating in the bellhousing, it is not centered because of the gap between the fingers and the release bearing, I'm guessing it will align on the dowels of the flywheel, am I right?
Sunday, January 30, 2011 - 06:11 pm, by: Scott Wilkes(Scottywilkes)
not sure on the snaprings mate, did this about 2 years ago so the memory is pretty non existant , i just removed and reinstalled at the same time.
The clutch plate is centred as its splined to the input shaft of the gearbox. Basically just fit all the pressure plate bolts and do them up progressivly.
Dont do 1 up at a time as it can distort the clutch diaphram fingers.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - 07:24 pm, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
Luang Thokbuom wrote on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - 03:02 pm:
also how long did the shop take to machine the flywheel?
any decent machine shop should have it back to you the same day.
The complete job should only take a day if you have the ability to get the car off the ground and some way of managing the weight of the gearbox- I used a trolley jack and it was a bit scary. I would reccommend something like a motorbike jack or proper gearbox jack.
Thursday, July 14, 2011 - 12:08 pm, by: Luang Thokbuom(User_not_valid)
just trying to figure out if i should take it to a diy shop and do it there or take my time at home and not be worried how long the shop has the flywheel while im paying for a hoist. Is the job fully do-able from a floor jack?
Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 06:28 pm, by: Luang Thokbuom(User_not_valid)
The one i got is a factory manual
Another question is are the flywheel bolts TTY or are they reusable with just some locktite? They are a lot of money for new bolts $12 each for Toyota part number 90910-02103 but if it must be done then it does
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