Friday, January 31, 2014 - 08:41 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Time to put pen to paper as I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel so to speak. I started off buying a m90 charged soarer then I broke it, and fixed it. the bug bit and needless to say i broke it a couple more times and during that time my work has sent me to china for 6 months and then NSW for another 6. As it stands at the moment I have: -a JB automotive built long block with corrilo's, cp pistons, etc. -bullet intake manifold and w/a intercooler. -2.3 litre whipple s/c -custom twin throttlebody rear plenum using 2x holden ecotec throttle bodies. -5/8 id fuel rails -ID1000 injectors -I have modified the fuel tank (welded 3/4"jic bulkheads into the spot the banjo bolts were, bent 1/2"ss tube return to the swirl pot, and fitted a bosch 044 with 1/2"ss teflon line.) -I have ordered a AI undercar surge tank and will be fitting it with twin 044's under the DS intake filter. -battery is being relocated to the boot. -I have an auto electrician creating a complete new loom for me with plugs at the firewall for easy(er) engine removal(god i hope this is the last time ha ha(50% done). -MV auto(as tuff as they cold make it with 2600stall) -wolf v550
I know this project wont be everyone cup of tea but that's life. I have just fitted the engine in the engine bay with the radiator (just alloy radiators) and hyd fan to see where there is space(there isn't much) for all the bits and pieces i want to install. Accusump, remote oil filter and cooler with thermostat, tranny cooler with fan, heat exchanger, reservoir and pump, and a p/s cooler( I have cut the ends off the p/s fittings and braised jic male ends on.)
once I have run the motor in, I plan to change the s/c drive to a HTD style belt and up the boost to around 20 psi. Oh got a bit carried away with the engine side of things. other mods completed: -gixxer drew coilovers -group buy swapbars fr and rr -urethane steering bushes
purchased but not completed: -LS400 front clipers and braided lines.
things I need to sort and am not sure which way to go yet: -crankcase ventilation. looking at twin arrington aos's (http://www.shophemi.com/p-2273-hemi-air-oil-separator-by-arrington-performance.aspx) running each side from the cam covers to the aos to the intake pipe prior to the TB's. no pcv, the thought being that the engine makes the most blow by at high rpm/high boost and the pcv is completely blocked in this situation. I have a set of valve covers that I have modified (welded 1 1/16"JIC male nipples onto) and will be sending to zircotec to be ceramic coated.
Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 01:54 pm, by: Clayton Carlyle(Clayton)
Hey Damon, sounds like an awesome setup mate. Can't wait till you post some photos. Did you get your pistons from Andrew in Florida? Have you got the COP's installed? Please let me know how much the new loom costs as I need to fix parts of mine. Photos please!!
Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 04:06 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
more
yeah will need to modify the bonnet but you get that. Also modified the bullet manifold to take an IAT from the bottom post cooler, but unless something goes really badly its too much effort to take a photo now ha ha.
Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 04:09 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
these cam covers will be coming off once i have the modified covers coated. I'll take some photos of the wiring next time im in the shed and let you know what the rewire costs once its done Clayton.
Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 11:01 am, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
couple more photos. heat exchanger (engine oil cooler will go on this bracket above the HE), accusump position (looking to rivnut the brackets to the back of the big alloy box section, I'm not sure what you call it. I've removed the large plastic air diverter? to do this. Unsure whether its a good idea but wont know till its run in I guess.
Thursday, February 06, 2014 - 04:19 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Clayton you're not the only one ha ha. Before I broke it last time it made 412rwhp so I'm expecting MORE ha ha. Thanks Paul I'll have make something new up to go around the new cooler placements. Those cam gears look nice. I'll have to have a look at them when I get the HTD belt drive done. I had more parts turn up.
now I just have to check that they fit the ports at the front of the cats and get a mate to weld up the O2 sensor ports and threads on the rush extractors. Also talking to a company about a new lighter bonnet with a bulge in it and potentially intake vent from the bottom of the windscreen. Time will tell
Saturday, February 08, 2014 - 07:43 am, by: Ben Lipman(Ben12a)
G'day Damon,
I munted a big end bearing in my 1J and am looking to avoid doing that again any time soon. One of the suggestions has been to fit a accusump. I notice you have done just that. Can you give me any details on why you have done it, what was needed, and where you purchased it, how much etc?
Saturday, February 08, 2014 - 01:57 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Hi Ben, Sorry to hear about the failure. I know what that's like, I'm still not completely sure why my last motor threw a leg out. I think it was a combination of faulty level switch in the water meth reservoir switching the ECU maps and leaning out, weak rods and an over rev (the graph from dyno on the last build had the power curve still going up when it hit the rev limiter @7500 so not Ideal)
Which brings me to this rebuild and to be honest I'm a bit scared so I'm going for overkill on everything. I'll get you the details on the accusump this evening re price etc. but the way I'm setting it up is as follows: engine oil relocation adapter--> remote oil filter (z9= bloody big)--> thermostat-->cooler-->thermostat-->check valve-->Tee piece Accusump--> engine. The Accusump that I purchased is 3 quarts (2.84Ltrs)and has a valve that releases the oil if there is power to it(I'll be wiring to the 'ON' position on the ignition) and oil pressure is below 25psi. Once the oil pressure reaches 40psi the valve will allow the accumulator the fill again. This circuit means that the engine will have oil pressure before the crank moves. It will also protect the engine in the event that high G forces (front-rear or side-side) take oil away from the pick up in the sump. I'm also going to put an oil pressure switch prior to the oil filter with an LED on the dash which should allow me to save the engine if the oil pump dies or the sump leaks or..... (theory only and to be honest I hope to never find out whether it works in practice or not). I have 1/2" line to run the whole circuit but I'm tossing up whether to go with 5/8" instead.
Sunday, February 09, 2014 - 08:38 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Didn't Get as much done this weekend as I wanted to. I'm blaming the rain....
I borrowed a rivnut machine from a mate and now only have the tranny cooler mounting to go. I've mounted the remote oil filter behind the thermo fan cooler. The accusump and engine oil thermostat are mounted on the back of the bumper reinforcement but the reinforcement wont be refitted until I sort the hosing and adapters out. (order tomorrow get Tuesday hopefully).
The engine oil and power steering coolers are mounted above the heat exchanger. If they don't get enough airflow there I'll get another draw fan as there is room between the coolers and the air con element. Photos aren't great but the coolers are Satrab brand.
this weeks plan is remove engine, fit transmission and engine, hose engine oil circuit and P/S circuits and fit transmission cooler.
Monday, February 10, 2014 - 06:58 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Thanks Paul, Living up here doesn't make anything easier trust me. Had to head out west today but I got fittings organised and also picked up a bunch of 3" ss mandrel bends for the exhaust. I'm sure the decision to go 5/8" hosing for the engine oil system is the right one but my wallet isn't thanking me.
Friday, February 14, 2014 - 06:32 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Had one of those days today. Yesterday I pulled the motor, fitted the trans and refitted the motor.( this is a major PITA with the extra height of the s/c and how close the plenum is to the fire wall) As there was no one around, I thought "just bolt the tranny up then when one of the lads finishes work get them to turn the engine over for me".DONT DO THIS. So today my mate turns the motor over... And the converter turns too, with no bolts in it. No one to blame but myself. So tonight I'll be pulling the engine again, removing the tranny, ensuring the converter is located correctly and refitting everything. Then tomorrow I'll start playing with the speedflow fittings
Saturday, February 15, 2014 - 11:57 am, by: Paul Drane(Paulwd)
sounds like you didn't seat the convertor all the way in, pain in the arse having to pull the motor again. I know what it like with mine and getting it out with the charger still on the motor.
Thursday, February 20, 2014 - 07:10 pm, by: Damon Cornish(Boz)
Your not wrong there Paul. I think that's what comes from using the eye micrometer instead of actually measuring it.
So the Converter is bolted up now. New megan engine and tranny mounts are in.(I thought I'd give them a go since new oem engine mounts didn't survive the tuning session on the last build.) I'm also interested if anyone has info on what strut etc to use as a torque damper on the uz motor.
I had an update today from a few suppliers. Zircotec said they are looking to have my cam covers done by the end of next week. +freight from the UK I'm guessing 3-4weeks away. The guys making the bonnet form me said thhey're looking at shipping mid next week.(This will be good because the bonnet fitment will dictate how large a header tank I can run for the intercooler, Ideally fill the entire hole left by the battery.) I have ordered 2 Norgren F74 body oil/Air separators, should be here mid next week.(designed for use in a vacuum circuit and they should flow enough to cope with this engine once its really old and flogged out.)Touches wood. here's hoping. tonight I'll finish off the engine oil hosing, take a few photos then remove the hoses as I'm going to take them into work and poly shot them.
After looking at all the coolers, I think I will have to get a body kit once its going just to get a bit more airflow. I have also lined up a hoist for next weekend so the exhaust will be done then and the stauff clamps welded on for the 1/2 s/s tube fuel lines. I just have to work out how to get from the chassis rail(at the moment I'm looking at running the two pipes up the outside of the drivers side chassis rail) to in front of the drivers side front wheel. I don't want to run the fuel lines past the exhaust. Might be easier to see once its on the hoist.
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